Retro wallpaper

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I've fallen in love with the bold patterns of wallpaper from the 1970s—and the modern interpretations of them. But unlike the pattern overload of the 70s, vivid wallpaper is now used in smaller doses. Try papering just one wall, a closet door, the back of a bookshelf, or the front of a modern buffet. Hang a poster-size sheet of it or frame smaller pieces grouped together.

Finding good wallpaper can be a challenge, so here are a few great online wallpaper sources:

American Blinds has a smaller selection of good retro wallpaper, but their prices are as low as $16.50 per double roll—one of the best on the web.

Interior 1900 has the real stuff your grandparents might have hung on their walls. It's pricey, and quantities are limited. A good source for authentic 70s wallpaper.

Graham & Brown has an extensive collection of up-and-coming wallpaper along with 70s-inspired patterns.

Wallpaper from the 70s is my favorite site. It's based in Germany, but they ship anywhere—and they promptly answer emails. Best selection online that I've found.

Here are links to other sources:
Apartment Therapy has a great list of wallpaper sources.
Domino magazine lists sources for authentic vintage wallpaper. Nearly all are based overseas.
eBay is also a good place to look. My favorite eBay store is U-Turn.

Making a paper-recycling tote

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Ever need something that you're sure exists, but once you go looking for it, you come up empty? I searched for a bin in which to toss all my paper recycling (let's face it: junk mail). And I wanted it to fit on the bottom pull-out shelf of my not-so-attractive-but-necessary microwave cart. Found zilch. So I made my own out of a cardboard box and fabric. It's not exactly pretty, but it's oh-so-handy, and it only cost me $16.

Supplies:
Cardboard moving box (I found the perfect size at The Container Store)
Craft glue (I used Aleene's Tacky Glue)
1 1/2 yards of fabric (I used cotton duck cloth)
3 1/2 yards nylon strapping
1 yard half-and-half hook-and-loop tape (one side you stick on, the other side you sew on)
Erasable fabric marker
Yard stick
Straight pins
Thread (to match fabric and straps)

Step 1: Assemble the box
First, I glued the bottom flaps in place, then glued the top flaps down against the inside. I placed heavy books on each side for a half hour while the glue dried.

Step 2: Measure & cut the fabric
I measured the box, then added 1/4 inch to all the measurements. I wanted to use just one piece of fabric to cover the sides and bottom, so the drawing of the piece looks like a plus sign. I added 1/2 an inch inseam all the way around the edges, and 4 inches height (for overlap) to each side. (Click the sketch to see it larger.) Then I measured and marked the fabric, and cut it out.

Tip #1: This fabric cover is designed to be removable and washable, so pre-wash and iron your fabric to reduce shrinkage.

Step 3: Sew the cover
I pinned and sewed each of the four sides together. Then I folded over the top edge about 5/8 inch, and sewed it down. Next I cut the hook-and-loop tape into four sections—each a few inches shorter than the corresponding side of the box where it would be placed. Then I sewed each non-sticky piece of hook-and-loop tape onto each side of the fabric cover, about 1/2  inch from the top.

Step 4: Sew on the straps
I slipped the cover over the box, then measured and pinned the straps in place. Next I removed the cover and sewed the straps on.

Step 5: Cover box & apply hook-and-loop tape
I slid the cover back on the box. Then I attached the sticky side of the hook-and-loop tape to the sewn-on side, and removed the backing. I pulled the cover tight, and pressed down on the hook-and-loop tape to make it stick to the box. Voilà. It's done.

Here are more ways to go green.
And here's another fabulous tote by J. Caroline Creative. So cute!

Fall tabletop ideas

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

For those of you who aren't in a rush to decorate for Christmas, give your pumpkins one last hurrah before everything becomes tinsel and snowflakes. Remember: Fall isn't over until Dec. 22, and pumpkins aren't just for Halloween.

Pumpkin vases
I carved out two medium-sized pumpkins just big enough to fit a medium-sized wide-mouth canning jar inside. Then I placed the jars, and filled them with water, plant food, and long-lasting mini carnations (from Safeway). When it's time to decorate for Christmas, mix the carnations in one big vase, and you're ready for the holidays. Here are some tips to extend vase life.

Candle holders
I used squat pumpkins and 2 1/4-inch-wide pillar candles. I carved out a hole that was just big enough to hold the candle. When carving the hole, err on the smaller side and adjust as needed.

Mini menagerie
I arranged a variety of small pumpkins and gourds in a glass cylinder. (All the pumpkins and gourds that I used are from Farmer John's in Half Moon Bay).

Here's another great tabletop idea from Jess Chamberlain: Make your own menorah.

Long-lasting cut flowers, Part 2

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Last July, I wrote about flowers and foliage that have longer vase life. One of the flowers I mentioned was alstroemeria. Honestly, I had no idea what alstroemeria looked like in person. The online photos I found didn't help much. Then last month Sunset had some flowers leftover from a photo shoot. Among them were alstroemeria. I grabbed a bunch of reddish and coral-color blooms and decided to put them to the test.

The photo above was taken the day after I brought them home. I had trimmed the stems, stripped the leaves from the bottom part, and placed them in water mixed with a plant food packet that they came with.

Two weeks later, I took this photo. They opened up more; the leaves were a little droopy, but overall they looked great. (The pinker color in this image is because of different lighting.) That's the last photo I took because someone (ahem, me) accidentally let them go dry one day. Despite that, they continued to look beautiful for a few more days. I'm convinced they could have lasted a month with proper care.

So, I'm a big fan of alstroemeria. They're not roses, but they're gorgeous—and they stay gorgeous for much longer.

Making a simple photo album

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Confession All my photos are still in photo boxes or on my hard drive.

Excuse #1 Scrapbooking isn't for me. It's too time consuming. Plus, I want my photos to take center stage, not some pretty paper cutouts.
Excuse #2 I’ve never liked the idea of a collection of mismatched photo albums, which is what happens when you buy new albums over time.

Solution I made my own albums out of 3-ring binders.

10 reasons I love these
1. I can make more with matching or coordinating fabric
2. All my albums will be the same size
3. Minimal sewing is required
4. The cover is washable
5. They hold up to 200 pages (100 front and back)
6. They accommodate regular photos or digital printouts—no cutting required
7. They’re expandable and editable
8. The sleeves protect photos from fingerprints
9. They’ll last forever because I’ve used all archival-quality materials
10. I can make and fill five of these in the time it takes to fill one scrapbook

Supplies
Standard 3-inch, 3-ring binder (had on hand)
100 pack heavyweight acid-free, archival-quality sheet protectors (Staples, $13)
100 pack acid-free black card stock (McWhorter’s, $11.50)
Heavyweight photo-quality printer paper (had on hand)
Photo-safe removable double-sided tape (Staples, $4)
1 1/2 yards of heavyweight fabric (Joann’s, $9)
Black fountain pen (had on hand)
White “Gelly Roll” pen (McWhorter’s, $2)

Step 1 Make the cover
This is basically made the same way we folded paper-bag book covers in school.
I started by cutting a piece of fabric that was 14 x 49 inches.
Then I folded the two short sides 5/8 inch, pressed, and sewed them. Next I folded and pressed the top and bottom sides 1 inch each. Then I folded over each side 11 inches, pinned, and sewed all the way across the top and bottom of the cover about ¼ inch from the edge.
Finally I slid the binder into the cover by turning the binder inside out.

Step 2 Fill the pages
Here are two ways to do this: You can tape your photos onto sheets of black card stock and slide them into the sheet protectors, or use a graphics program to print your digital photos onto a sheet of photo paper and slide that into the sheet protectors. I did both. I also left space to label each photo by hand (white pen on black paper, black pen on white paper).

It’s that easy. Did I mention these make great recipe books and gifts too? The only drawback: They're heavy.

In two weeks: Amazing alstroemeria

Making a ribbon wreath

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I know. It's still October. Why a Christmas wreath? But if you attempt this project, you'll be glad you shopped for supplies now. Avoid crowds. Get a better selection. So here's how I made this wreath...

Step 1 Buy supplies
I bought just two things: A 12" metal ring and 24 yards of 1 1/2" wired ribbon
(8 yards of each pattern). I found both items at Joann's.

Step 2 Tie bows
36 of them to be exact. If you don't know how to tie a good bow, you'll be a pro at it by the time you're done. It took me about an hour and a half.

Tip #1 Tie each bow before cutting the ribbon. That way, you can cut the tail to exactly the right length.

Tip #2 Use one, three, or more different ribbons. Two ribbons looks a bit stripey.

Step 3 Shape, trim & hang
After evenly spacing the bows, I shaped each loop into a circle and pulled them to the front. Then I trimmed any over-long tails and loose threads. I hung the wreath using a Command Adhesive hook and arranged one of the bows to cover the hook.

Voilà—the easiest project I've done so far. Admittedly, it looks candy caney. But that's the beauty of this project: You can choose any ribbons you want.

In two weeks: Easy handmade photo album.

It's easy being green

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

3 things you should never do:
1. Never dispose of mercury-containing items, such as fluorescent light bulbs, lamps, and tubes, in the garbage. It’s actually illegal to do so.
2. Never pour fats, oil, grease, or pharmaceuticals down drains. Contact a recycling center to find out where to recycle these items.
3. Never recycle pottery, ceramics, or porcelain. If pieces of pottery get mixed in with glass, the entire batch can be ruined.

These are just three things I learned from Wendy Hediger from the City of Palo Alto Recycling Program. We asked her to speak to my church’s women’s group last week. She answered our nagging questions: Should you wash empty food containers before recycling? (A quick rinse is usually sufficient.) Can you recycle cardboard milk cartons? (Not curbside in Palo Alto. They can only be recycled by placing them in the designated bin at the recycling center.)

The 4 Rs Wendy talked about the four Rs: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, and buy Recycled-content products. Think twice about whether you really need to buy something. Reduce your junk mail by doing it yourself or by hiring a service such as Green Dimes. Buy in larger quantities to reduce packaging. And support companies that are making recycled-content merchandise. If we don’t buy them, they won’t make them. I recently found this great list of recycled-paper manufacturers.

Paper or plastic? Neither. Both have a negative impact on the environment. Wendy recommended using reusable shopping bags. In 2004, the City of Palo Alto Recycling Center collected 35,920 pounds of film plastic (mostly plastic bags) for recycling. That’s just one city and one year.

We bought canvas shopping bags from Dharma Trading Company and decorated them with stencils and fabric markers. Some of us bought several to give as gifts. And Sarah holds the record for decorating nine bags in one evening.

Tip #1 The key to a freehand design, such as the tree I drew (top photo), is drawing it first with an erasable fabric marker, then trace it with the permanent markers.

Two other great reusable bags are the Baggu Bag and the ChicoBag. Both can be folded compact. And who doesn’t love LLBean's Boat and Tote?

Some grocery stores that give bag reuse discounts (local stores vary):
Albertsons - $.05
Andronico’s - $.05
Mollie Stones - $.05
Safeway - $.03
Whole Foods Market - $.05
Draeger's - $.05

80/20 rule Finally, Wendy encouraged us to follow her 80/20 rule: Do your conscientious best for the environment 80% of the time, and give yourself a break the other 20%.

Thanks, Wendy. For more ideas on going green, check out Living More Green.

Next week: A ribbon wreath.

New obsession: Train-station clocks

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Ever since I made those lazy-susan clocks, I've been on a clock kick. Then I discovered a trend: train-station clocks. And fell in love. I haven't figured out an easy way to make my own (yet), so I'll just share some great ones that I've found. I'm partial to the Smith & Hawken clock, but it's sold out. Most train-station clocks are large and are designed to be hung indoors or outdoors. They're double-sided, and some even have a clock on one side and a thermometer on the other. Very cool.

Left to right: Smith & Hawken, Home Trends, Bellacor, Home Trends, Target, Homedakor, CB2, eBay, Ace Hardware.

In two weeks: Going green.

Sunburst mirror

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

You’ve seen them, right? They’re everywhere. Sunburst mirrors have made a comeback in a big way. They’re usually gold or silver, and pricey.

Clockwise from top left: Treadway Gallery, BJ's Home Accents, CB2, Colee Hammock Home, Chiasso, Plantation Home Accessories.

I decided to make my own version out of a lazy susan. I followed Steps 1-4 from my previous post, with a few exceptions:

1. I arranged the 7" mirror ($2.29 from Michael's) and wooden teardrops, glued everything down except the mirror, then painted the entire surface white. (I know. White again. I can’t help myself.) Then I glued the mirror on last.

Tip#1 Don’t glue your pieces right up against the mirror. With three coats of paint on them, the mirror won’t fit. Believe me, I know. I had to shave off a bit of paint with a razer blade from each piece touching the mirror. And don’t try to force the mirror (like I did). Who needs seven years bad luck?

2. Finally I attached a picture hanger to the back, and hung it on the wall.

For more DIY projects, visit Sunset's step-by-step page.
 

In two weeks: Train-station clocks.

Big Red & Baby Blue clocks

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I saw this large black clock in a CB2 catalog several months ago and loved it. But I wanted a red one. So I figured out how to make my own version out of a $7 lazy susan from IKEA. Here’s how I did it…

Big Red
This one is made from the top of the lazy susan.
It’s 15” in diameter.

Step 1 Play
The fun part about this project is that the possibilities are endless. You can use paint, decorative upholstery nails, stencils—the list goes on and on. I chose to use wooden shapes that I found at Michael’s. After I tried out several patterns on the clock face, I chose this flower design. I’m also making another with this circle pattern.

Step 2 Sand & paint
After lightly sanding the top and sides of the lazy Susan and the edges of the wood shapes, I removed the dust with tack cloth. Next I covered my work surface with a drop cloth, and painted a primer coat on all the pieces. (Special thanks to my neighbor Kristi for priming the petals for me!) Then I applied 2-3 coats of paint. For the big clock, I used Benjamin Moore paints: Umbria Red (1316), Space Black (2119-10), and a custom white created by Susan Delurgio. For the baby clock, I used Behr paints: Prelude (740E-3) and Lake Stream (PMD-24). Finally, I let the paint dry overnight.

Tip #1 Don’t disassemble the lazy susan until after you’ve painted it. It’s a cinch to paint the sides by just rotating it around.
Tip #2 Some of the pieces require a light sanding along the edge after the paint dries.

Step 3 Deconstruct & drill
I flipped the lazy susan over, and used pliers to unscrew the nut. Then I pulled the base straight up and off. Next I removed the four screws holding the turning mechanism. Using a ruler, I drew an X by connecting the screw holes. Then I drilled a hole through the middle of the X with a 5/16” bit.

Step 4 Glue
I applied a thin coat of wood glue with a toothpick to the back of each wooden shape and lightly pressed it down. For the flowers, I glued the centers down first to provide an anchor for placing the petals. 

Step 5 Assemble
I bought quartz movements with free hands from Klockit, and assembled them according to the instructions. I used 7" hands (#66981) for this clock and 3 1/8" hands (#66930) for the Baby Blue clock. The movements came with a heavy-duty hanger, so all I needed to do was add a AA battery, set the clock, and hang it. 

Baby Blue
This one is made from the base of the lazy susan. It’s 7” in diameter.
I followed the same steps as the big clock, with a few exceptions: 1) I drilled through the existing smaller hole. 2) I painted the sides a different color. Using a small paintbrush,
I painted from the center outward to get a clean line at the edge where the two paint colors met.  3) To glue the blue dots in exactly the right spots,
I measured with a protractor and placed them every 30 degrees.

In two weeks: Sunburst mirror.

Displaying seashells

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I have two collections: postcards and seashells. I haven’t thought of a good way to display the postcards yet (suggestions welcome!), but I came up with two seashell solutions that work for me. Here’s how I did it…

1. Seashell candlescape
Making seashell candles is not a new idea, but they’re a rickety container ill suited for holding an open flame. Inspired by Zen sand gardens, I thought of a solution. Placed in sand, the seashell candles would be stable. Plus, it’s a beautiful and easy way to display them.

Step 1 Gather supplies
First, I needed a shallow box or tray to hold the sand. I found this stained black wooden tray at Pier 1 a couple years ago. Next, I bought a bag of sand, pouring container, and candle thermometer at Michael's. Finally I bought a bag of tea lights at IKEA.

Step 2 Make the candles
First I dumped the sand into a disposable pie plate and placed the seashells level on the sand. Then I removed the trays and wicks from several of the tea lights and deposited the wax in the pouring container, which I had put in a pot of boiling water. Next I clipped the thermometer to the inside, and watched the wax melt. The wax became transparent and ready to pour at about 160 degrees. After filling each of the seashells, I waited a few minutes before placing the wicks in the bottom of the shells. In about half an hour, the wax had hardened and developed a well around the wick. It was time for the second pour. I reheated the wax, filled the wells, and let them cool.

Tip #1 Keep your wax between 160 and 180 degrees for pouring. 
Tip #2 Don’t use your display container when pouring the wax. You don’t want to  dribble—and you will—on your nice container.

All I had left to do was transfer the sand to the wooden tray, place the candles, and light them. I’d say gazing at a glowing seashell candlescape is more relaxing than raking a Zen sand garden.

2. Seashell shadow box
I love this solution because I can see each individual shell—plus I never have to dust them. I found an unfinished pine shadow box on eBay. I applied a polyurethane varnish (to protect it from moisture in my bathroom, where it now hangs), then nailed two picture hangers to the back of it. Next, I hot glued the shells in place. Finally, I assembled the box, glued it shut with wood glue, and hung it on the wall.

Now, if I can only find a great way to display postcards…

Next week: An oversized clock.

Dressing up a boring bookshelf, Part 3

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I wouldn't actually call it a china cabinet, because it won't hold china, and it's not a cabinet. How about dish shelves? Either way, it's not a boring bookshelf anymore. Here's what I did this week...

Step 5 Fill the holes
I used wood filler to fill all the nail holes and caulk to fill in gaps at the corners and edges of the molding. I find wood filler much easier to work with because I can always sand out mistakes when it dries. Caulk? Not so much.

Step 6 Paint
I painted one coat of primer and two coats of white paint. For the larger areas, I used a small paint roller, which made the job faster and eliminated brush strokes.

Tip #1 Don't be tempted to buy cheap paint rollers and brushes. You'll only end up tossing them and buying better ones. Splurge on the good stuff. Why? You'll get a smoother, more even finish, and the job will go much faster.

Step 7 Attach the backing
I bought a sheet of bead board to replace the original tattered backing. After Dan cut it to size for me, I painted it pale blue (Behr Prelude 740E-3). When the paint was dry, I nailed it to the back of the shelf unit.

Step 8 Anchor it to the wall
It's tall, skinny, and a bit top heavy, so it needed to be bolted to the wall. I screwed two L-brackets into the wall, then screwed the top of each bracket to the shelf unit.

Tip #2 When anchoring to drywall, use a stud sensor to find a stud, then drill there. Or use a drywall anchor or "molly bolt."

Step 9 Screw in the cup hooks
I found chrome cup hooks at Lowe's. After measuring and marking where I wanted them to go, I encountered a problem: My drill wouldn't fit between the shelves. So I hammered a nail into each spot, yanked it out, and screwed the cup hooks into the nail holes.

Finally, it was ready to load with dishes, napkins, and candles. My palette was inspired by Iris' dishes in the movie The Holiday. (Iris was played by Kate Winslet.) Don't I wish I had her cottage kitchen too.

Next week: It's all about seashells.

Dressing up a boring bookshelf, Part 2

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

After Dan cut all the wood for me, I sanded and attached the pieces to the bookshelf frame. This is how I did it...

Step 1: Remove the back
The back was falling off anyway, so I removed the rest of the staples it was hanging on to. I’ll replace it later.

Step 2: Build the base
As you can see, the plan changed slightly. I decided that building a table for the bookshelf to sit on would work better. And as luck would have it, I found the perfect curved piece of wood at the salvage yard to use as a skirt. I started by attaching the legs to the tabletop with 5/16” lag bolts. Then I placed the skirt pieces between the legs and attached them with L-brackets, screws, and glue. Next I clamped the skirt pieces to the tabletop and hammered in a few nails from the top. I had inset the skirt a quarter inch from the edge, so I was able to hammer a few nails through the tabletop into the bookshelf. That, along with wood glue, attached the bookshelf to the base.

Step 3: Reinforce the top
I glued, clamped, and nailed pieces of wood around the top edge of the bookshelf to support the crown molding I would be attaching. Then I did the same to affix a 1x10 onto that for the top shelf.

Step 4: The hard part
Lining up the moldings and trim boards was a little more difficult. I used wood glue, finish nails, and a nail set (to counter-sink the nails). I had to yank out a nail or two and start over, but I finally got it done. Now all I have to do is fill in nail holes, caulk the corners and edges, attach the new back board, and paint. Is that all?

Next week: The final product.

Dressing up a boring bookshelf, Part 1

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

This small unfinished pine bookshelf has been shuffled from room to room. I planned to paint it, but never did. I was on the verge of kicking it to the curb. Then, after unsuccessfully searching for a china cabinet for my tiny dining room, I decided to dress this bookshelf up as a china cabinet.

I started with a sketch. (Click the sketch if you want to see it bigger.) I want to lift the shelves off the ground, hence the legs. I'll also add crown molding and trim boards on each shelf. And I'll paint it white. 

Step 1 Shopping
I found a nearby salvage yard, where I bought molding and other pieces of wood that I’d cut for trim and reinforcement. I love salvage yards (two others that I frequent are Urban Ore and Omega Salvage), but beware: They aren’t always cheaper than buying brand-new, so compare prices first. I also found the perfect turned legs and the hardware I needed at Lowe’s.

Step 2 Measure twice, cut once
Now that I’ve accumulated a pile of wood in my car, Dan Strack, Sunset building maintenance, is going to help me cut them to size. He’s also going to router the shelf trim pieces for me. I can’t wait to get started!

Next week: Assembling the pieces.

Just add paint & bling

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I bought this letter bin on clearance at Target a couple years ago. Let’s face it: It’s seen better days. Plus, to quote my sister, it’s “really ugly.” So, I gave it a makeover. This is how I did it…

Step 1 Disassemble, sand, and paint
I unscrewed and removed each bin, then sanded the entire surface with fine sand paper. After removing the sanding dust with tack cloth, I painted on a coat of primer. When that was dry, I painted three coats of the same black paint that I used to paint the drawer unit (in photo above).

Tip #1 Disposable gloves will prevent the tack cloth’s sticky substance from getting on your hands. That stuff doesn't come off.
Tip #2 Use paint that’s made for wood. It will give you a harder finish, but will take longer to dry. I used Benjamin Moore Metal & Wood Enamel in Space Black (2119-10).

Step 2 Attach cup hooks
Finding silver cup hooks was a challenge. After checking every local hardware store without results, I bought a pack of 7/8” nickel-plated cup hooks at Shop.com. But, after removing the bins, I discovered that the bottoms were little more than 1/8” thick, which wouldn’t be enough to screw cup hooks into. So, I found a scrap piece of wood at The Home Depot that was the perfect thickness. I cut a piece to fit in the bottom of the bin, sanded it, and painted one side with black paint. When it was dry, I clamped it to the bottom bin, and drilled pilot holes in the spots I had already measured and marked. Then I screwed each cup hook into the pre-drilled holes.

Step 3 Reassemble and attach label holders
I bought metal label holders from JoAnn’s and four 1/4” screws from Ace Hardware. After I screwed the bins back in place, I measured and marked where I wanted each label holder to go. Then, I pre-drilled holes and attached the label holders. Finally, I made labels on my computer and dropped them into each holder. All I had to do next was hang it back on the wall and let it fully dry over the next few days. 

Next week: Bookshelf makeover.

Making a funky lampshade, Part 2

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

After punching and arranging the circles for my funky lampshade project, the next steps were to string and hang them...

Step 5 Stringing the circles
Umm, I experienced a few false starts here. First, I tried fishing wire and dabs of hot glue. Too time-consuming. Who wants to see globs of hot glue anyway? Then I adhered two circles together along the fishing wire with Glue Dots. The light didn’t penetrate two layers as well as one. Next I tried sewing them together by hand. A bit time-consuming as well, but it looked good. Ultimately, I bought clear nylon thread at Jo-Ann’s and sewed them together by machine. It took me about three minutes to sew each strand. I made 30 strands, which makes a total of an hour and a half to sew them all.

Tip #4 Backstitch the first and last circles. Just a few stitches will lock the thread in place.
Tip #5 Use your machine’s longest stitch length for fewer holes and faster speed.
Tip #6 Feed each circle through with one hand and gently pull the strand through with the other. This will keep the circles from bunching too closely together.

 Step 5 Hanging the circles
Tying each strand onto the wire by hand was tedious. So, I made each strand twice as long, folded it in half, and draped it over the wire. This was by far the easiest part of the project. Then I spaced each strand out evenly.

Tip #7 To get the circles to lie flat, bring every other strand to the outside. (I realized this after I took the picture.)

Step 6 Light it up
I used an 11-watt florescent bulb for two reasons: It’s eco-friendly, and it generates less heat than a standard incandescent bulb. I didn’t want to risk melted plastic. Finally, I pulled the chain and watched it glow.

Next week: Letter-holder makeover.

Making a funky lampshade, Part 1

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

While shopping at West Elm a few months ago, I saw this capiz table lamp, and thought, “I could make that.” But I didn’t want to make it exactly the same. Besides, where would I get capiz shells? I decided mine would be multicolored. This is how I did it...

Step 1 Finding the lamp base
Procuring a lamp base was easy. This one was a leftover prop from one of Sunset’s idea houses. It’s perfect because it has a straight candlestick base and a pull chain, but any lamp with a narrow base will work.

Step 2 Stripping the lampshade
Next I cut and ripped the fabric off of the top lampshade ring. The adhesive left behind proved to be difficult to remove. After trying several methods unsuccessfully, I rubbed a cotton ball soaked with lighter fluid on the ring, and the gooey gunk finally came off. Then I washed the ring in soap and water to remove the lighter fluid.

This was such a laborious process that I thought I’d find a supplier of what they call slip uno top rings to save us all some trouble. Trust me, you can’t buy them. Well, you can, but they’re ugly. Most are half unfinished and half gold-plated. I spent weeks searching online, driving around town, calling and emailing manufacturers for a chrome top ring—without success. So I suggest finding a lampshade with a pretty top ring and rip it apart—or spray paint an ugly one.

Tip #1 If you’re into the work, strip the lampshade’s bottom ring as well and make a mobile out of it.

Step 3 Making the circles
I bought circle paper punches in three sizes: 1”, 1.25”, and 1.5” at Beverly’s and sheets of rice paper from University Art. Rice paper comes in beautiful colors, and it’s pleasingly translucent; however, it’s thin and flimsy. After laminating each sheet at Kinko’s, I was ready to start punching.

Tip #2 I laminated three 24” x 36” sheets—one in each color—but I used less than half of each. Because Kinko’s charges $3 per square foot, I recommend laminating only a 16” x 24” piece of each color.
Tip #3 Hold the punch upside-down so you can see the piece you’re punching.

Step 4 Is “orchestrated randomness” an oxymoron?
After I punched several circles, I laid them out in strands of nine circles in a small-medium-large arrangement, alternating the colors in a purposefully random pattern. It was like trying to foil an opponent at Connect Four. 

Next week: Stringing the circles.

Long-lasting cut flowers, Part 1

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I have a love/hate relationship with cut flowers. I love how beautiful they look and smell the first couple days. Shortly thereafter, love turns to hate. That’s when the wilting and stinking phase kicks in.

Even more annoying—none of the roommates I’ve had ever changed the water, and they kept the poor, dying blooms around long past their prime. Inevitably, I faced droopy flowers in mucky, reeking water on my kitchen table when I ate. Not very appetizing.

Then, last summer I made an amazing discovery: Some flowers last much longer than others. I received a mixed bouquet for my birthday. Over the next few days, I removed each dead flower and changed the water. Soon, all that was left were a bunch of lavender mums. I checked them day after day, and they continued to look beautiful. After I had them for a month, I took the picture above.

That got me thinking. What other flowers are long lasting? Lauren Swezey, Sunset garden writer, suggested alstroemeria, carnations, and daisies in addition to chrysanthemums. Then, I discovered that cut greens can look just as beautiful as flowers and last even longer.

On page 112 of the June issue of Sunset magazine, you’ll find this photo of philodendron leaves (cut from one of our plants in the office) in a stone vase. Rob D. Brodman shot that image in our studio March 28. They’re still alive and beautiful in a vase in my apartment. I took the picture below last week.

(Our garden editors have also told me that I could get the leaves to root with not much effort. I think I’ll try it.)

After finding these enduring plants, I looked to Sunset for cut-flower tips to make them last the longest possible. Check out this article on how to extend vase life.

Now I'm eager to display these cut flowers and greens all over my apartment—knowing they have long, gorgeous lives ahead of them.

Next week: Funky lampshade.

Making the perfect ottoman, Part 5

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I’m done! After countless hours and copious amounts of stray threads strewn about my apartment, the ottoman project is finally finished. This is what I did this week...

Step 10 Sewing the bottom pieces
I sewed the bottom sides and welting using the same process from Step 9, except this time I cut the welting strips twice as wide so I would have extra fabric to wrap around the bottom of the ottoman. Then I sewed the original bottom zippered piece to the bottom edge of where the cushion will go. This saved me time and money, and it will be hidden anyway.

Step 11 Stuffing the cushion
I unzipped the zipper and stuffed the cushion into the cover while trying to minimize wrinkling of the inner cover—which was quite a workout.

Step 12 Attaching it to the frame
Once the cushion was inside the cover, I slipped it over the frame. After straightening and pulling the edges, I folded the fabric over the bottom edge of the frame, stapled it every few inches, and trimmed the excess fabric.
Tip #5 If any of the staples stick up a bit, just hammer them down with a hammer.

Step 13 Tufting
As you will see, this would have been easier to do before Step 12. First, I measured and marked with straight pins where I wanted each of my covered buttons to go. Then, following the package instructions, I made eight covered buttons (using circles cut from leftover fabric scraps). Next, I threaded a 10-inch upholstery needle with a 2-foot-long piece of waxed twine and pushed it through the cushion from the top down. Then, I unthreaded the needle at the bottom, looped the button onto the top piece, and threaded the needle again at the top. I then pushed the needle through about ¼ inch from the first entry, so both ends of the twine emerge from the bottom of the cushion. After repeating this on all eight buttons, I flipped the ottoman over and stood on the cushion, straddling each pair of threads (which compresses the cushion). Then I pulled the threads tight, tied them in a knot, and trimmed the excess length.

Step 14 The dustcover
I bought a piece of Pellon to use as the dustcover because it's close in texture to the original. I folded the edges under and stapled it to the frame. Then, I cut holes for the feet and screwed the feet on.

People have asked me if it was worth all the work. The answer is yes. The total cost (including the price of the ottoman itself) was only $136.77! Next step: Scotchgard.

Next week: Long-lasting cut flowers.

Making the perfect ottoman, Part 4

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

I’ve had minor setbacks and delays this week on the ottoman project.

Step 8 The welting
After cutting out the fabric pieces using the old pieces as a pattern, I encased the original piping from the ottoman in a long strip of fabric and basted it together lengthwise (to create welting), stopping about two inches from each end of the piping.
Tip #1 Cut your welting strips on the bias (diagonal). The fabric will have more give and will be easier to work with.
Tip #2 Cut your fabric strip about two inches longer on one side than you think you need. You will tuck that under and sew it later.

Step 9 The top cushion
Next, I sewed the four sides (which will cover the top cushion) end-to-end. Then I pinned and sewed the welting around the top and bottom edges of the four sides.

Tip #3 Fold each piece that you'll be sewing together in half and mark with a fabric marker. Fold in half again and mark. You will then have four marks on each piece to match up and pin in place. Then pin halfway between those marks and so on, until you have a pin every few inches.

I didn’t follow this tip the first time, and my welting ended up being six inches too short! After I fixed that problem, I marked, pinned, and sewed the top piece to the side pieces. Warning: Sewing the corners is difficult, but be patient and persistent.
Tip #4 Use your zipper foot when sewing welting and move the needle to the far left—it allows you to sew closer to the piping.

So, I finally have the top cushion cover sewn together, and— voilà!—it fits. Whew.

Next week: Attaching the bottom pieces.

Making the perfect ottoman, Part 3

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Now that I’ve got the feet worked out, it’s time to reupholster the ottoman. Did I mention that I’ve never attempted this before? With a little trepidation, I forge ahead…

Step 5 Find the fabric
I wanted to reupholster it in white twill fabric to match my IKEA Ektorp sofa, but didn’t have any luck finding fabric to match. Then I found a white sofa slipcover in the As-Is department at IKEA for $10, which is a coup considering the price of upholstery fabrics by the yard.

Step 6 Rip it up
After laundering the slipcover, I cut all the seams off and saved the pieces. Using a flathead screwdriver and pliers, I removed the staples holding the existing fabric to the frame. I was happy to discover the foam and batting were inside their own pillow. That will make my job easier.  Then I took apart the outer cover with a seam ripper. No cutting the fabric this time because I’ll use these pieces as a pattern for my new cover.

Step 7 Cutting the pieces
I ironed the old and new fabric pieces, then pinned them together and started cutting. So far so good.

Next week: Sewing it all together. 

Making the perfect ottoman, Part 2

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

It's better already, n’est-ce pas?
This is what I did this week...

Step 3: Remove the dustcover
Using a flathead screwdriver and pliers, I removed the staples holding the dustcover on the bottom of the ottoman. With the dustcover off, you can get a pretty good idea of how a piece of furniture is put together. The dustcover was ripped beyond repair, so I’ll replace it later.

Step 4: Attach the feet
Using a drill and screwdriver bit, I attached four furniture-leg mounting plates and screwed the hanger bolts right into them. I was relieved that the feet were the perfect height. I’ll need to unscrew them to finish the job, but I left the feet attached for now. To visualize the final product, I also cut the skirt off. Then I stood back to take a look. Ooh la la!

Next week: That fabric has to go.  

Making the perfect ottoman, Part 1

By Monica Ewing, Sunset senior designer

Lately, I’ve been coveting a coffee-table ottoman. You know: the kind of oversized ottoman that you can kick your feet on from nearly any seat in the room and use as a coffee table. I especially love Pottery Barn’s Alexandria Ottoman, but $700 is a bit out of my price range.

Then I found this ottoman on Craigslist, and bought it for $60. The only thing it has going for it is its size, so I’m giving it a makeover.

Step 1: Remove the casters
Because the ottoman is too low to the ground, the first thing I did was remove the casters. I wedged a screwdriver under each wheel and hammered the handle end until the wheel popped out.

Step 2: Find new feet
The casters are two inches tall, and I figured the ottoman needed to be about three inches taller, so I hunted for five-inch-tall wooden feet. I finally found the perfect feet at Bing’s. They sell stained bun feet with the hanger bolts already attached, which makes the job so much easier. I ordered four mahogany-stained feet for $7.53 each. The company says it takes 14 working days for them to be delivered—ugh.

Next week: Attaching the feet.  

Behind the scenes at Sunset: Tropical tabletop

Ever open a magazine and wonder what it takes to put a story together? In this, the first in a series of behind-the-scenes reports on the making of Sunset Home stories, we give you the inside scoop—from inspiration to execution all the way to (hopefully) editorial success.

Case study #1: Tropical tabletop. This is an idea we’re working on right now—in real time!—for our upcoming August in the West section. It all started with some painted outdoor tables (left) that Katie, our editor-in-chief, spotted at Buzz’s Original Steakhouse in Kailua, Oahu. She loved their breezy, offhand tropical charm and figured readers would too. So our intrepid pair of Home crafters, writer Jess Chamberlain and designer Monica Ewing, got to work on bringing our own version to life.

A small blue Crate & Barrel metal table that lived in the Sunset prop closet became the lucky Cinderella. Monica created a gorgeous pattern of hibiscus-inspired orange and white blooms on a bright blue background. “I love this color combination—it just felt like summer to me,” she says. She found the appropriate acrylic paints (we used Liquitex high-gloss acrylic enamel) at our local art supply shop.

Then came the actual painting process—which Monica bravely attempted in her own office area, attracting the attention of numerous nosy/procrastinating co-workers. The biggest stumbling block: a failed attempt at tracing the pattern onto the table with china marker, a waxy pencil used to mark up photo contact sheets and transparencies. To our consternation, the marks didn’t rub off the way we expected. Undeterred, Monica simply forged ahead and painted over them. “But I would tell readers to outline the pattern with a very small paintbrush instead,” she says. Another of Monica’s tips: Paint one petal at a time, starting at the center of the flower and working outward. “When the paint dries, the brushstrokes are clearly visible, so this technique gives each petal a nice natural texture,” she says. Stay tuned for more of her tips—as well as the final, gorgeous result—in our August issue. — Irene Edwards, Sunset executive editor, Home + Garden